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We wind our way further into the hills through the picturesque village - it's about a 10-minute drive through beautiful mountainous countryside. On arrival, I'm pleasantly surprised. Nestled among towering fern trees, the Treehouse looks every bit your archetypal Austrian home-stay. Painted a brilliant white, the entire building is adorned with a series of charming wooden balconies. Beside the gravel car park, chopped firewood sits stacked immaculately beneath a wooden shelter housing mountain bikes. Only a few feet opposite lies a steep hill leading to the region's main ski field, the Kasberg. Interestingly, though, there are no crowds around. The alpine air is unbelievably refreshing and although it's quiet, there's the faint sound of a river rushing out the back. A small gathering sits outside around wooden tables drinking Stiegels (the locally favoured brew) from tall glasses. Inside, the atmosphere is just as pleasing. Though the carpet is worn and a little tatty, there's a real home-away-from-home vibe about the place. Just through the main entrance is a cosy dining area complete with crackling log fire. A couple sits playing cards while a few others are hunched around a semi-circular bar enjoying a few beers. It's all very low-key and relaxing. Upstairs, I've opted for a double room and am pleased to discover a comfortable bed complete with chunky duvet and clean sheets. The en suite is spotless and comes equipped with a power shower. But there's more! Sliding open the glass doors, I'm delighted to discover the room's sizeable balcony overlooks the river and surrounding countryside. Gerhardt has already taken my evening meal order (there are usually a couple of hearty home-cooked meals to choose from), so I head back downstairs to the dining area. Striking up conversation with the other guests proves easy - the age group varies enormously - and after dinner a few of us head downstairs to the bar. Here there's a small snooker table and guests are encouraged to choose their own music from a selection of CDs at the bar. Cleverly, Gerhard has introduced a tab system, so no money will change hands for the duration of your stay. I learn this the hard way but as the accommodation itself is so unbelievably inexpensive (about $40 a night for a double room), it really doesn't matter. Tomorrow I will rent snowboard gear from the nearby ski centre - the chair lift is only a five-minute walk from the the Treehouse. During ski season (late November to early April) this is the favoured pastime, but in spring and summer guests can choose from hiking, mountain biking, horseback riding, swimming, rafting or canyoning. His fashion sense may not have him gracing the catwalks of Milan or Paris any time soon, but Gerhard certainly knows how to create a homely atmosphere and run a well-organised, quaint little lodge. The Treehouse is one place definitely deserving of its growing reputation as a hidden gem. TRIP NOTES * Getting there: Take a train to Wels, on the main line between Salzburg and Vienna. In Wels, change trains to a small regional train, on track 11, to Grunau im Almtal. Call from the station for a free pick-up. The closest major airport is Salzburg. For flight details, see http://www.flightcentre.com.au. * Address: Schindlbach 16, 4645 Grunau im Almtal, Austria. Phone, +43 7616 8499 or see http://www.treehousehotel.net. * Staying there: Double rooms (per night) are about $35 in summer and about $38 in winter. Triple bedrooms: summer $34, winter $36. * Skiing-snowboarding: In off-season special offers, from December 8 to 22, January 6 to February 2 and March 2 to March 30 next year a three-day lift pass (weekdays) is $87, (including one weekend day) $104, or a six-day ski pass ending on a Saturday or beginning on a Sunday is $175. This story was found at: http://www.theage.com.au/travel/gerhardt-the-king-of-cool-20081113-651u.html